Backpacker CDT Trip- Un-named lake to Big Hole Pass

It was freezing waking up on our last morning out. I was cold and there was definitely frost on the rainfly. We packed up and pretty much skipped breakfast so that we could get on the trail and head out of the woods. I think we were all dreaming of the hot springs and a good meal. The night before we had eaten some lentil curry, the worst meal of the trip, and my stomach was not thrilled with it. I was definitely looking forward to some real food.

We still had about 2 miles to the divide above Fourth of July Creek, but it was beautiful trail, much like what is common on the PCT. After the Divide, we were on a narrow ridge with the trail traversing a rather steep drop-off. There were rock retaining walls and good trail the whole way (sort of like in the Goat Rocks or North Cascades PCT sections). At the high elevation of the day we had a fabulous view into the Big Hole Valley and Aaron got a decent shot of me frowning into the camera.

We then began a huge descent from 9,000 ft to about 5,000. This was less of an ankle/knee killer than I had expected, but still a little hard on the joints. We took a couple of breaks to get water and have some snacks, but the trail was very different in character. It reflected the elevation change and their were more blowdowns, shrubs, and grasses and less of the super-straight tree groves found a bit higher up. We followed Big Sheep Creek for several miles and continued to descend into a valley where the trail seemed to get worse and worse. At the lowest elevation, we all met up and talked a bit about the plan for getting out to the road. Tom's car could only handle so much weight, so we needed to make two trips to accommodate all the people/gear. Aaron proposed that we try to hitch into Wisdom and then into Jackson so that Tom could go back for Jon. This was really no fun for anyone: us standing in the sun waiting for a ride, Jon sitting at the trailhead, and Tom driving the endless dirt road twice. Unfortunately, we had no choice...to make matters worse, the last 4 miles to the car were less than ideal. From the low point, we had to tackle a 1500 foot climb up the worst "jeep road" (impossible to drive a jeep on) I have ever seen. It truly was the most horrible hike of my life, so far, beating the 26-mile day up and over Mt. San Jacinto (current PCT record-holder) and most of Pennsylvania (AT record holder) . I have been forced to tears on much better trails. The road (I do love roads, after all!) just plain went straight up while following a creek drainage. I tried all the tricks in my arsenal (counting steps, only looking at the rock directly in front of my foot, yoga breathing, singing Lucinda Williams songs, etc) to make the climb easier, but it just took the spirit out of me. Once again, everyone was waiting for me and I was totally at my wits end. Note to whom it may concern: that is not a trail. It dishonors the name National Scenic Trail! Reroute the trail, anywhere else! Please.

After the road from hell, there was a nice newly created Real Trail to try to butter up angry hikers and placate them before they quit hiking for good. After reaching the Big Hole Pass Road we had a short .9 of mile walk to the car, which was slightly anti-climactic. Everyone tried to yogi a ride from a pickup driver at the pass, but he was headed for Idaho and we had to stick to the plan. Maybe it was the hitching and the car shuttles, and the general mellowness at the end of the hike, but I was disappointed that we didn't have a more celebratory mood. Luckily, about 20 minutes after Tom dropped us at the highway, we got our first hitch into Wisdom with a nice hippie guy with a canoe and a black lab. Then from Wisdom, we grabbed a soda and got the very first truck headed to Jackson to stop for us. It was a rancher who talked to us about managing three cattle herds and what actually goes into making "grass-fed, all natural" beef. He and Aaron could have probably talked about guns for about a hour longer, but we quickly made it to Jackson. It even came up in conversation that he knew one of our friends in Yosemite, what a small world! Thanks so much for the rides!

When we got back to the lodge, there was a decision made to get our truck that night, rather than in the morning, so we headed off with Tom to retrieve the Xterra. I had forgotten that this actually involved HIKING up to where we left the car, in the dark, without any warm clothes. It kind of sucked, but the truck was there. We didn't get back to the lodge until 10:00. They had stopped serving food at 9:00 and it was kind of a bummer, especially since Jon's wallet had been locked up in our car! I'm used to being really psyched to reach the end of the trail with my hiking partners and to going out for a feast! By the time I got back to the lodge, I was cold, hungry, and sore with no hopes of a feast besides the packets of Doritos behind the bar. But, even though the kitchen was closed, luckily the hot springs were open!

We all got into the springs and soaked which did wonders for my outlook on life. Jon brought Aaron and I a much-needed beer and we did manage to toast our accomplishment. I think we (Team Bitterroot) did a great job. Not many other teams were assigned 60 miles with a 3-mile road walk to start! Special thanks to Jon who had to do all the GPS and camera duties himself. He did a great job and his account of the trip (along with his other adventures) can be found on his blog, My Life & Travels. After the soak, we had a couple beers at the bar and reunited with the missing link: Skot (who had been put to work chopping vegetables for dinner that night). He was off to Missoula in the morning and we heard he had performed some ceremonial rites at Miner's Creek to express his frustration with Backpacker. It was good to see him again, and I wish him the best of luck and nothing but happy trails.

Besides making new friends and helping map the trail, one of best things about coming to Montana was discovering the Jackson Hot Springs Lodge. This is truly one of what we call "the last outposts" (the Big Island, Taos)...kind of in the vein of David Milch's Deadwood and John From Cincinnati (please don't cancel it!!!). It's what Jackson Hole was before it was ruined. Though the Big Hole Valley is haunted by the Nez Perce/U.S. Army battle, it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I will definitely be back.

I've very glad that I did this project. It was a bit weird at times, but Aaron and I have gained so much from our hikes on the long trails (not the least, each other!!) and we have benefited from the maps, trail work, and general kindness of so many people including trail angels, volunteer trail crews and land managers that this is the least we can do to give back. Not long ago, I was telling my co-workers (who don't really get the backpacking thing) about the unique relationships you form on the trail. There are people I consider friends that I have hiked with. But, in contrast, there is really no one that I have backpacked with that I don't consider a friend for life. So, thanks to the team, the lodge, the forest service, and the firefighters. Thanks even to Backpacker Magazine. This was a great trip.