Yellowstone Trip 2008 Part III

So I have done a pretty horrible job of recording the Yellowstone trip, I didn't keep any notes because I was navigating and driving a lot, but I did want to finish the summary and I happen to have some time on my hands while I am in an airport waiting to fly back to Vegas.

So, a couple things I wanted to record, some notes on the fishing and some notes on the drive home. I personally fished on two rivers while we were up there, the Madison and the Lamar. If I were to recommend one, I would go with the Lamar, because the drive out to the valley is amazing (which is important if the fish are laughing at your casting and don't bite -- this happened a lot to me!!) Our fishing friend who accompanied us also had lots of luck on the Yellowstone River when he backpacked in for an overnight. I think if I went back I would try to plan a lesson at the beginning of the trip. I am a true believer in getting some decent technique at the beginning and since it has been a while since I had been fly-fishing, I think it would have helped. Even our experienced friend, struggled somewhat until he got into it and had some time to practice.

On the last day at Yellowstone, we headed out towards Ennis to drive through some more pretty country and to make a stop at the Jackson Hot Springs Lodge where we stopped last summer. We had one wrong turn and ended up driving extra miles (like a couple 100 extra miles really matter??) We turned on the road out of Dillon and a huge thunderstorm hit. It was amazing with the clouds looming and lightning and thunder. There were weird pockets of sunshine in between and then spots of hail. A typically dramatic summer storm out west. We arrived at the Jackson Hot Springs Lodge and got a cabin for the night. A few things had changed since we had stayed there last year during the Backpacker project. The former owner sold the lodge and it was not longer being run by Inga and her staff. There was a new bartender/manager and a new chef (not that I got to EAT last time--grumble, grumble!). We spent some time at the fabulous bar, found out about a fishing hole that we had permission to access off one of the ranches, and found out the cowboy poet we met last year had passed away. It was great to spend some time there and check out some of the places we hiked. The weirdest thing was that the whole time we were there last year we NEVER saw the mountains because of the fires and smoke haze. I was SHOCKED at the view and would have never known just how pretty the valley truly was. We took a soak, met some nice folks, listened to the locals talk about the "wolf problem" and observed the Lodge's signature "Shot-ski" where they served shots on a ski outfitted with glued on shot glasses. Three people drink on cue and it is very amusing!

The next morning we stopped at Big Hole National Monument and headed back to Idaho Falls to our favorite Motel 6. That night, in search of food, we stumbled upon a Russian restaurant in the phone book. When we saw the name, we knew we had to check it out...and that is how we ended up at Ida-Russkie!! The woman who waited on us was so incredibly nice - even though we made her cook us every single Russian dish on the menu (actually they weren't on the menu, as this was a fast food place in a strip mall, but we has called ahead and knew she offered Russian food.) We ate and she cooked and we laughed and really enjoyed ourselves at this little gem of a place. Thanks for the hospitality, it wasa a great way to end the trip!

The next day was sad, we dropped our friend at the aiport in SLC, drove the long drive back to Vegas and unpacked the millions of boxes of gear. It was a fun trip and I'm so happy we got to do it with our grood friend from the trail.

Yellowstone Trip 2008 Part II

The third day of the trip we GOT TO YELLOWSTONE, which is something that you really can't imagine, unless you go and experience it yourself. First of all, there is a ton to see and at any moment you can spot bears, moose, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, bison, elk, deer, antelope, bald eagles, or wolves right from the comfort of your car. It is surreal and amazing.

In addition to the geysers, mudpots, waterfalls, boiling hot springs, and towering peaks there are about a million of your fellow Americans to observe if the wildlife get too boring. The drive into the park allowed us to take in a couple scenic stops including a view of Yellowstone Lake and several waterfalls. We arrived at our campground (Madison), learned all the rules about bear country, and then set up camp complete with our hammock. Throughout the trip the excitement had been building to GET to Yellowstone and yet we promptly LEFT Yellowstone to go to town and buy some supplies (bourbon). We also took our first trip to a local fly shop.

Like a Crested Butte ski shop, Moab bike shop, Oahu surf shop or any other snotty, tourist-exploiting outfitter the staff at this fly shop had attitude and the tourists tended to put up with it; maybe because they are stunned by natural beauty and seek an authentic experience (of which sarcastic outdoor staff have become an integral part). I bought an handful of flies and some flotant, but was generally underwhelmed by the Madison River fly shop. Don't go there unless you are single and want to hook up with an attractive young fly guide and don't mind spending lots of money in the process. Later in the week we re-located all of our fly purchases to Jacklin's Fly Shop which was a million times better. To get it out of the way here is a rundown of the various places we ate in West Yellowstone:

• The Gusher (Pizza)- excellent pizza and a nice local vibe
• Beartooth Barbeque (BBQ)- good sandwiches as long as you can handle meat
• Old Time Cafe (Diner) Polish waitress, try the chicken fried steak, family-run
• tried to go to the microbrewery but it closes absurdly early

On an additional eating note, I have to say that everyone that goes to Yellowstone should at least visit the Old Faithful Lodge. It has a special place in my heart because my Mom worked there as a college student for two summers and it always reminds me of her and our family trips. But, even to those less nostalgic, the building is an architectural wonder and the dining room has an amazing fireplace. Just go there and think about the time in this country when the Civilian Conservation Corps were building our park's grand lodges. Not to mention the view out the back...oh yeah, that would be THE Old Faithful. The one that has rows and rows of seating and erupts just about every 50 minutes.

We went early in the morning of our fourth day and as the sun was rising over the steaming Firehole River we pulled into the vast, empty parking lot literally right before the impressive eruption. Killer timing as the sun came up. After a walk through the geyser basin (Old Faithful is but one of many geysers) we hit the breakfast buffet in the lodge. Notably, it comes with the "good coffee" (organic fair trade and most importantly- strong). You won't be so lucky elsewhere. The food is typical, with nicer than average service and top notch atmosphere. You get the feeling that if you could tune out all the families and tourists that Teddy Roosevelt might be around the corner smoking cigars and telling stories.

In the next installment I promise to get to the important stuff...the fishing.

Yellowstone Trip 2008 Part I

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Originally uploaded by zenhikers

At the beginning of August, we headed out of town to spend some time in Yellowstone National Park, near the part of the country we visited last year on the Backpacker CDT Project. This year, rather than meeting up with a cranky trip leader, we met up with our friend Fine Dining (Andrew) from the Bay Area. We're old friends from our PCT hike in 2002, so travel together was anticipated to be a fun reunion. After a quick stop in Salt Lake City to retrieve Andrew, we hit the road for Idaho and beyond. I don't really recommend stopping at the Tasty Treet in Pocatello, but if you want to encounter a completely enigmatic menu you can order a burger (or something) make a guess at the unique combination of condiments you may receive and sit outside in a nice yard on the main drag. After a few more miles on the road and the integration of our various iPods, satellite radio channel preferences, and CDs, we made it to Idaho Falls and the warm welcome of Tom Bodett. There was a lot of anticipation to GET TO YELLOWSTONE, but because we hadn't set up a campsite reservation until Saturday we decided to drive into the park through Grand Teton and camp out one night a lake there.

The drive out of Idaho Falls involved a search for suitable caffiene, a drive through rural Idaho (beautiful) and some yuppie-viewing in Jackson Hole. We also made our first stop to clean the bugs off the windshield...this would be a point of contention during our travels, since some people literally can't see the road for the bugs, and some fail to let a few arthropod carcasses get in the way of their driving. Others were just plain compulsive and did a great job cleaning the thing. Hey! Pocky appreciates that kind of effort.

Almost immediately after leaving Idaho Falls we starting seeing wildlife, and the bison (a most impressive animal) really woke us up as we entered Grand Teton. We got to Lizard Lake campground in the early afternoon and had a relaxing time setting up camp, chatting and cooking a meal on the Cobb Cooker. Most of the time in camp (and this is a theme through the whole trip) I spent practicing the myriad of knots involved in fly-fishing. I started practicing at home with some alpine cord, but using real fishing line and leader was a whole different ball game. Frustration ensued. I took breaks to go see the awesome campfire programs that the National Parks put on for bored campers, families, and nature nerds like me. At Lizard Lake the program was on the pronghorn antelope and I learned a lot about this very funny looking animal. We went to bed pretty early because we were REALLY EXCITED to GET TO YELLOWSTONE in the morning.