Sunday, September 14, 2008

Yellowstone Trip 2008 Part II















The third day of the trip we GOT TO YELLOWSTONE, which is something that you really can't imagine, unless you go and experience it yourself. First of all, there is a ton to see and at any moment you can spot bears, moose, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, bison, elk, deer, antelope, bald eagles, or wolves right from the comfort of your car. It is surreal and amazing.

In addition to the geysers, mudpots, waterfalls, boiling hot springs, and towering peaks there are about a million of your fellow Americans to observe if the wildlife get too boring. The drive into the park allowed us to take in a couple scenic stops including a view of Yellowstone Lake and several waterfalls. We arrived at our campground (Madison), learned all the rules about bear country, and then set up camp complete with our hammock. Throughout the trip the excitement had been building to GET to Yellowstone and yet we promptly LEFT Yellowstone to go to town and buy some supplies (bourbon). We also took our first trip to a local fly shop.

Like a Crested Butte ski shop, Moab bike shop, Oahu surf shop or any other snotty, tourist-exploiting outfitter the staff at this fly shop had attitude and the tourists tended to put up with it; maybe because they are stunned by natural beauty and seek an authentic experience (of which sarcastic outdoor staff have become an integral part). I bought an handful of flies and some flotant, but was generally underwhelmed by the Madison River fly shop. Don't go there unless you are single and want to hook up with an attractive young fly guide and don't mind spending lots of money in the process. Later in the week we re-located all of our fly purchases to Jacklin's Fly Shop which was a million times better. To get it out of the way here is a rundown of the various places we ate in West Yellowstone:

  • The Gusher (Pizza)- excellent pizza and a nice local vibe
  • Beartooth Barbeque (BBQ)- good sandwiches as long as you can handle meat
  • Old Time Cafe (Diner) Polish waitress, try the chicken fried steak, family-run
  • tried to go to the microbrewery but it closes absurdly early
On an additional eating note, I have to say that everyone that goes to Yellowstone should at least visit the Old Faithful Lodge. It has a special place in my heart because my Mom worked there as a college student for two summers and it always reminds me of her and our family trips. But, even to those less nostalgic, the building is an architectural wonder and the dining room has an amazing fireplace. Just go there and think about the time in this country when the Civilian Conservation Corps were building our park's grand lodges. Not to mention the view out the back...oh yeah, that would be THE Old Faithful. The one that has rows and rows of seating and erupts just about every 50 minutes.

We went early in the morning of our fourth day and as the sun was rising over the steaming Firehole River we pulled into the vast, empty parking lot literally right before the impressive eruption. Killer timing as the sun came up. After a walk through the geyser basin (Old Faithful is but one of many geysers) we hit the breakfast buffet in the lodge. Notably, it comes with the "good coffee" (organic fair trade and most importantly- strong). You won't be so lucky elsewhere. The food is typical, with nicer than average service and top notch atmosphere. You get the feeling that if you could tune out all the families and tourists that Teddy Roosevelt might be around the corner smoking cigars and telling stories.

In the next installment I promise to get to the important stuff...the fishing.

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